ABOUT MEZCAL

Mezcal is a spirit distilled from any agave plant. Now for the spirit's origin story. In addition to introducing wheat and domesticated animals, the Spanish conquistadors brought distillation when they arrived in Mexico. They took the agave and started distilling it and, as such, mezcal was the first distilled spirit made in the Americas.

First, tequila can only be made from the Blue Weber agave, which is also known as agave tequilana or simply blue agave. On the other hand, mezcal can be made from various types of agave, it's processed differently, and it's not usually aged.

The Different Varieties of Agave Used for Mezcal

Most mezcal is made from Espadín variety agave because it grows relatively quickly, taking 7 years to reach maturity. Other agaves take decades to mature but agave espadin grows quickest and can be cultivated, making it the most sustainable varietal.

There are over 200 varieties of agave, most of which grow wild in the countryside, but only about 50 can be used to make mezcal. A few of the most beloved include tobaziche, tobalá, and madre cuishe. But, because these cannot be cultivated it is often unsustainable to drink these varieties.

Fields of maguey or agave, the plant from which mezcal is made, in rural Oaxaca © Eunice Adorno

HOW IS MEZCAL MADE? 

The spirit begins by harvesting the maguey or agave plant. Mezcaleros and mezcaleras use machetes to remove the leaves and get to the plant's heart, which is divided into pieces. Because the hearts look like oversized pineapples they are called piñas. Now the piña gets cooked.

The traditional method requires that it is roasted for days in an underground pit lined with lava rocks and is how it gets its distinct smoky flavor.

Victor Ramos and his son Emmanuel. Image from http://www.tenzingws.com/